If you're batch engraving on the xTool S1 without a dedicated pre‑flight checklist, you're probably wasting time and money. I know because I did. First mistake cost me $2,800 in materials, three days of rework, and a damaged client relationship. After that I built a simple three‑step check that's caught 47 potential errors in the past 18 months. Here's exactly what went wrong and how to avoid it.
Why you should trust this
I've been running a small laser side‑hustle since 2021, handling custom orders for local makers. My first big batch order was 200 wooden keychains. I'd tested one sample, looked fine. Ran the full batch, walked away. Came back to find the wood had warped from heat, the engraving depth was inconsistent, and some pieces had burn marks. $1,200 down the drain. After that I documented every screw‑up. By end of 2023 I'd wasted another $1,600 on similar mistakes —wrong power module for acrylic, misaligned files, skipped calibration. So yeah, I've paid tuition.
The three mistakes that killed my batch jobs
1. You can't guess the settings—even for the same material
I assumed all 3mm basswood sheets behave the same. They don't. The batch from one supplier had a denser grain. My preset? Overburn. Every keychain had a charred edge. I'd engraved 100 before I noticed. Ripped 'em all.
Now I cut a small calibration square from every new batch. Adjust power and speed. Not ideal, but workable. Spend 5 minutes calibrating, save $100+ of materials.
2. The 20W module isn't always the sweet spot
When I bought the xTool S1, I picked the 20W diode module. Reviews said it's the best balance. For most things, yes. But my job suddenly needed cutting 4mm acrylic. 20W struggled—multiple passes, melted edges. I'd committed to a 5‑day turnaround. Ended up buying the 40W module rush‑shipped, lost $200 in extra shipping and wasted material.
Here's the thing: the 20W is great for engraving and cutting soft materials. But if you plan any thicker acrylic or hardwood, get the 40W. The numbers said 20W would be fine. My gut? Something felt off about their acrylic samples. Ignored it. Regretted it.
3. File prep errors compound exponentially in batch mode
I once uploaded a single SVG with 50 elements, each supposed to be a coaster. Forgot to group them. The laser software interpreted each element as a separate job. It engraved the first, then jumped to a random coordinate for the second. By the time I caught it, 15 coasters were engraved in the wrong positions. $450 wasted, plus a 1‑week delay.
My fix: always export as a single design with proper alignment marks and bounding boxes. Use LightBurn's array tool, not manual placement. Check once, check twice.
Where the xTool S1 shines—and where it doesn't
To be fair, the S1 is a solid machine for small batch jobs under 500 pieces. The modular design is a genuine advantage. But if you're planning daily high‑volume production (like thousands of pieces), a CO₂ laser would be faster. Also, despite the marketing, it can mark metal, not cut it. For metal cutting you'd need a UV fiber laser, which is a completely different tool. I don't recommend the S1 for thin metal cutting—you'll just damage the lens.
So here's my honest take: the xTool S1 with 20W or 40W module is perfect for makers and small businesses doing custom gifts, signage, or low‑volume batch work. But if your batch involves thick acrylic (>6mm), daily metal engraving, or sub‑minute cycle times, look elsewhere.
I still use my S1 weekly. Now with a pre‑flight checklist that takes 10 minutes. Saved me three reprints and $800 so far. Not bad for a few sheets of paper.
