xTool S1: What I Learned the Hard Way Before Buying a Laser Engraver

I run a small engraving studio, and if you total up my wasted materials and rework since 2019, it comes to a number I don’t like saying out loud. I’ve made almost every beginner mistake you can make with a diode laser. This FAQ is for anyone searching for xTool S1 information, the rotary bundle, metal engraving, or laser cutting supplies. I’m not here to sell you anything—I’m here to help you avoid the expensive surprises I didn’t.

Is the xTool S1 Worth It, or Should I Buy the Cheapest Laser Engraver I Can Find?

My first laser was a cheap, open-frame diode engraver, and it was not an xTool. At checkout I felt smart. The savings disappeared quickly after I bought an enclosure, air assist, honeycomb worktable, and replacement lenses. Even then, the machine struggled to hold consistent focus for small production runs.

With the S1, you’re paying for a more rigid frame, an enclosed work area, and the ability to swap modules and accessories. Is it worth the premium? For business use, yes. I learned this in 2021 when I spent about $1,100 on materials trying to make a low-cost machine behave. The cheapest laser isn’t a bargain if it can’t repeat the same result twice. Budget for the entire system, not just the machine price.

Can the xTool S1 Do Metal Engraving?

Short answer: it depends on what you mean by “metal engraving.” The standard diode module won’t act like a fiber laser on bare steel. It can mark coated metals, anodized aluminum, and stainless steel that’s been treated with a laser marking compound. It won’t magically deep-engrave a knife blade or cut through sheet metal.

The mistake I made? I assumed a higher-power diode module would at least mark bare steel. Wrong. I ruined a batch of plain steel dog tags because I skipped the marking compound. The laser left a faint, rainbow-colored stain that wiped off with acetone. That was a stupid way to learn a basic physics lesson.

What worked for me: for stainless tumblers, I use a marking compound and test on a scrap piece first. For anodized aluminum, I get clean marks without compound. If your goal is daily metal-engraving work, especially jewelry, don’t expect the S1 to replace a fiber laser. It’s a tool with real limits, and your profits depend on respecting those limits.

Is the xTool S1 Rotary Bundle Worth Buying?

If you plan to engrave cups, bottles, bracelets, or anything curved, yes. I skipped the rotary bundle when I ordered my S1 because I thought I could rotate cylindrical items by hand. That was one of my worst cost-saving ideas. Every line came out uneven, and I wasted a full afternoon trying to fix something that needed a rotary fixture.

The rotary bundle simply turns the piece around an axis so the laser stays at a consistent focus on curved surfaces. It’s not a lathe and it won’t fix every shape, but it’s the difference between professional-looking tumblers and wavy messes.

I use mine mostly for tumblers and bracelet blanks. If you work with tapered cups, remember to check the focus at both ends. In 2023, I dumped ten stainless cups because the lower edges were blurry. That wasn’t the bundle’s fault—it was my setup. Buy the rotary bundle if curved work will be more than a one-off project, and keep a test piece nearby (mental note: always test before you start a big order).

Is the xTool S1 the Best Engraving Machine for Jewelry?

That depends on the jewelry. If you mostly engrave flat tags, cuff blanks, anodized aluminum pieces, bangles, or wooden and acrylic earrings, the S1 with a rotary bundle is a solid choice. It handles curved pieces well, which is where cheaper diode machines tend to lose focus.

But if your main product is ring interiors or deep engraving in sterling silver, gold, or brass, I wouldn’t call the S1 the best engraving machine for jewelry in that specific case. Those metals are highly reflective and need a different laser source. I learned this after trying to engrave a silver locket in 2022. The beam did something unpredictable, left a scorch mark, and I ended up replacing the piece from my own pocket. That order taught me to be honest with customers about what my machine can and can’t do.

From experience, the best engraving machine for jewelry isn’t the most expensive one—it’s the one you understand completely. If you buy an S1 for jewelry, choose jobs within its strengths and outsource the work it isn’t built for.

What Should I Know Before Using the xTool S1 as an Acrylic Laser Cutter Machine?

The biggest mistake I see isn’t the machine choice—it’s the material choice. For laser cutting, you want cast acrylic, not extruded acrylic. Extruded is cheaper and sometimes clearer, but it cuts poorly under a laser. It develops stress cracks and rough melted edges. Cast acrylic produces a cleaner edge and behaves more predictably.

I once bought a bundle of cheaper acrylic sheets because I wanted to save a few dollars per sheet. It turned out to be extruded, and the results were awful. Eighteen sheets went into the scrap bin because the edges looked like melted plastic straws. That was a painful lesson about total cost versus unit price.

Also, never cut PVC on any laser cutter. The chlorine gas can damage your optics and harm your lungs. Use laser-safe materials and check the data sheet if you’re not sure. A good “acrylic laser cutter machine” setup only works when you feed it the right supplies.

What Laser Cutting Supplies Actually Matter?

Air assist, exhaust, a honeycomb worktable, lenses, and marking compounds matter more than people think. I’ve tried cheap shortcuts with all of them. Air assist is not optional for cutting wood or acrylic—it clears smoke and reduces fire risk. Exhaust matters because fumes build up quickly inside any enclosed machine. You also need spare lenses because resin and smoke residue will coat them at the worst possible moment.

In my experience, the cheapest material is rarely the cheapest outcome. I once bought bargain plywood that contained an unknown adhesive. It cut badly and coated my lens with sticky residue. That “great deal” cost me an $85 lens replacement, a ruined batch of projects, and an entire evening of cleaning. So glad I stocked a spare lens before that happened, but I should have stocked better material instead.

This is why I focus on value over price. The lowest quote is only the beginning. Downtime, rework, ruined materials, and frustrated customers are all part of the real cost. The best machine for your shop is the one that runs reliably when you have deadlines. For me, that meant understanding my tools, buying quality supplies, and following the checklist I wish I had years ago.