xTool S1: 8 FAQs from a Budget-Conscious Shop Owner (Acrylic, Metal, Rubber Stamps & More)

So, you're looking at the xTool S1? Let's talk real-world cost and performance.

I manage procurement for a 15-person custom sign and gift shop. We've been running laser cutters for about 5 years now. Before you drop the cash on an S1, or any diode laser, there are a few things I wish someone had laid out for me. Here are the questions I get asked most often, and the answers I've had to learn the hard way.

1. Can the xTool S1 really cut acrylic? What thickness works?

Yes, it can, but you need to be realistic about what "cut" means. For clear acrylic (cast acrylic, specifically), a 20W module will cleanly cut up to about 3mm. You can push it to 5mm, but the edge might not be perfectly clear—you'll get a bit of a frosted look, which you'll need to flame-polish. The 40W module can handle up to 8mm in a single pass, maybe 10mm if you're patient and use multiple passes.

What I wouldn't do: don't expect to cut 1/4-inch (6mm+) clear acrylic perfectly on the standard 10W module. It'll do it, but it's slow, and the bottom edge will be rough. We use the 20W on our S1 and it's been our workhorse for 5mm acrylic keychains and small displays.

Bottom line: if you're cutting acrylic regularly, the 20W or 40W is a must. The 10W is for light scoring and very thin material.

2. How thick of wood or metal can it engrave?

For wood, I've cut up to 1/4-inch (6mm) basswood and 8mm plywood with the 20W. The key isn't just power—it's air assist. Without it, the wood catches fire. I'm not kidding. We lost a batch of 40 coasters because I assumed the included fan was enough. It wasn't.

For metal engraving: the S1 can mark anodized aluminum (it burns away the dye layer, leaving a white mark). It will also mark stainless steel, but you need the 20W or 40W and a special marking spray like Molykote or CerMark. I've tested it on a stainless steel knife set—it worked, but the result is a dark grey mark, not black. I'm not a metallurgist, so I can't speak to the exact mechanisms, but from a procurement perspective, the spray adds about $0.50 per square foot to your material cost.

3. Can the xTool S1 replace a fiber laser for rust removal?

Short answer: no. That's a different tool entirely. A fiber laser removes rust by ablating the rust layer with a high-intensity pulsed beam. A diode laser like the xTool S1 doesn't have the pulse energy for that. It'll burn the rust, but it'll also heat the underlying metal, potentially warping thin parts.

I compared quotes for a fiber laser earlier this year. Entry-level units start around $2,500. The xTool S1 with a 20W module is about $800. They're both lasers, but they solve different problems. If you need to restore old tools or auto parts, get a fiber unit. If you need to mark serial numbers or create custom engravings, the S1 is fine.

4. I want to cut rubber stamps. Is the xTool S1 a good fit?

This is one area where the S1 shines. Laser-cutting rubber stamps is a common use case, and the diode wavelength works well on rubber. I've cut stamps from 1/4-inch laser rubber (the pink or grey stuff). Settings I've dialled in: 20W module, 80% power, 150mm/s for a 2mm deep cut. The key is ventilation—burning rubber smells terrible and releases soot. Our vent kit cost about $120 to upgrade. Worth every penny, but budget for it.

The detail is surprisingly good. I've done stamps with 10pt text and no distortion. That'd cost $15-20 per stamp from a commercial vendor. Our material cost per stamp? About $0.30. So if you're in a B2B context where you're making custom stamps for clients, the ROI is solid.

5. Fiber vs. CO₂ vs. Diode: which is right for me?

I've tracked our invoices across three different laser systems over the past 3 years. Here's how I break down the math:

• CO₂ (e.g., 60W): Best for thick wood, clear acrylic, and glass. Fastest cut speeds. Unit cost: $3,000+. Tube replacement every 1-2 years: $300-500.
• Fiber (e.g., 20W): Best for metal engraving, marking, and rust removal. Unit cost: $2,500+. No consumable tubes, but higher upfront cost.
• Diode (xTool S1): Best for versatility on a budget. Good for wood, leather, paper, rubber, some metals (with spray), and colored acrylic. Unit cost: $800-1,200. Lower power, but lower total cost of ownership (TCO).

My rule: if more than 60% of your work is clear acrylic or thick wood, get a CO₂. If more than 60% is metal marking, get fiber. If you're like me—doing a mix of everything for clients—the S1 is the right middle ground. Full disclosure: I'm not a laser engineer. This is from comparing vendor quotes and running our own test logs.

6. Do I need the air assist? Is it worth the extra money?

Yes. Absolutely. The $99 for the xTool air assist pump is the best accessory investment you can make. I almost skipped it to save on upfront cost. That was a mistake.

Without air assist, the kerf (cut width) is wider, edges are charred, and you get smoke residue on the workpiece. With it, cuts are cleaner, faster, and you can cut thicker materials. My personal data: cutting 3mm basswood without air assist took 3 passes. With it, 1 pass at the same speed. That's a 66% time savings. Time is money.

7. What's the hidden cost of running an xTool S1?

Here's what I didn't budget for initially:

• Dedicated exhaust fan and ducting: $120–$200 (unless you're venting out a window with a simple fan)
• Laser honeycomb bed: $60–$100 (helps with smoke management and material stability)
• Rotary attachment: $150 (if you plan to do tumblers, bottles, or round objects)
• Laser module upgrades: the 10W is starter; most people upgrade to 20W ($150) or 40W ($300)

The total add-on cost can easily be $500–$800 beyond the base unit. That said, the S1's modularity means you can start with the 10W and add the 20W later. That's a nice option if cash flow is tight in Q1.

8. Will the xTool S1 give me a professional result for client work?

Absolutely—if you set it up right. I've cut custom acrylic signs for a local real estate agency and they looked as good as anything from a commercial laser shop. The key is the material choice. We use premium anodized aluminum and cast acrylic, not extruded. The difference is night and day.

When I switched from budget materials to mid-range options, our client feedback scores improved about 20% in 6 months. The $0.10 per part savings on cheap acrylic wasn't worth the 5% reprint rate. You can't afford to reprint client orders because your edge quality was poor. That $50 difference per project translated to better retention and more referrals.

Honestly, the S1 with a 20W module, air assist, and good ventilation will produce results that look easily worth $1,500+ from a commercial service. The only real limitation is cut speed—for large production runs, it's slower than a CO₂. But for custom, small-batch work, it's perfect.

Prices mentioned are as of Q2 2024 from my own purchase records; verify current pricing with xTool.