xTool S1 40W: What an Office Administrator Learned Before Buying for Our Makerspace

So You're Thinking About the xTool S1 40W? Here's What I Wish Someone Had Told Me

If you've ever had to justify a mid‑four‑figure equipment purchase to finance while simultaneously fielding excited questions from a dozen makers and engineers, you know the drill. I'm the office administrator for a 35‑person product development firm. Since 2020 I've managed about 100 orders annually across everything from office supplies to prototyping tools. When our R&D team asked for a desktop laser engraver, I dove into the specs, reviews, and – more importantly – the hidden costs.

Honestly, the xTool S1 40W looked like the sweet spot. But after going through the purchase, setup, and months of real use, I've got some answers that might save you both money and headaches. Here's the FAQ I wish I'd had.

1. Can the xTool S1 40W actually cut metal?

Short answer: No, it can't cut metal in the traditional sense. It can engrave anodized aluminum and some coated metals – that's a chemical reaction, not a cut. The 40W diode module will mark stainless steel (with marking spray) and deeply engrave paint off metal surfaces. But if you need to slice through steel sheets, you're looking at a CO₂ or fiber laser. Period.

To be fair, xTool's own documentation is pretty clear about this. Still, I've seen forum posts where people expected to cut 1mm steel and ended up disappointed. My experience is based on about 50 hours of testing with the 40W module on various metals. If you're working with ultra‑thin foils, your results might differ slightly, but don't expect miracles.

2. What about the exhaust? Do I really need the xTool S1 exhaust kit?

I still kick myself for trying to save $80 on this. The S1 comes with a basic fan and hose, but it's weak. When we first fired it up with the 40W module cutting 3mm birch plywood, the smell filled our entire 500‑sq‑ft lab in under two minutes. We had to stop, open windows, and order the official exhaust kit (with the stronger inline fan and carbon filter) overnight.

Short punch: Buy the kit. It's $129 on xTool's site as of January 2025. The fan moves 320 CFM vs. the stock 80 CFM. Also, check your local ventilation codes – some cities require a filter for laser fumes. Our safety officer insisted on it after Q3 2024.

3. Can I laser engrave a cutting board?

Yes – with a big but. You can engrave wood cutting boards (maple, walnut, cherry, bamboo) beautifully. The 40W module does deep, dark engravings at 3000 mm/min and 80% power. But glass or marble cutting boards? No. The S1 diode can't etch glass directly (more on that later). And plastic cutting boards (polyethylene) will just melt – not engrave.

If you're doing custom wedding gifts or small batch boards for a Etsy store, the S1 works perfectly. But you'll need to seal the engraved area with food‑safe mineral oil to prevent bacteria buildup. The FDA food contact standards actually recommend this for any laser‑engraved food surface. We learned that one the hard way when our first batch got returned.

4. What about cutting wood? Is the 40W enough for thick material?

The conventional wisdom is that diode lasers are only good for thin wood – 3mm to 6mm max. In practice, I've found the 40W S1 can cut up to 10mm basswood and 8mm birch plywood in a single pass at slower speeds (like 100 mm/min). But that's with the air assist on and a perfectly focused lens. For thicker stock (12mm+), you'll need multiple passes, and edges get charred.

If you mainly cut 3‑6mm plywood for prototypes or craft projects, the S1 is fantastic. But if your main use case is cutting 12mm+ hardwood for furniture, you'd be better off with a CO₂ laser or a CNC router. My sample is limited to about 15 different wood species we tested. Hardwoods like oak and hickory cut slower than softwoods like pine. Take that into account.

5. Can you laser cut glass?

This is the biggest misconception I see. The xTool S1 (any diode laser) cannot cut glass. Glass is transparent to the 445 nm blue diode beam – the light passes right through without enough absorption to heat the material. What it can do is engrave glass using a specialized marking solution (like CerMark or LaserBond) that absorbs the wavelength and fuses onto the surface. But that's a coating process, not true engraving into the glass.

For actual glass cutting (like for stained glass or bottle cutting), you need a CO₂ laser (10.6 µm wavelength) or a diamond scribe tool. The xTool P2, for example, can cut 3mm flat glass with proper settings – but that's a different machine. So if a customer asks you to cut a glass bottle in half, tell them no. Don't hold me to this, but I've seen some YouTube videos claiming to cut glass with a diode; those are almost always using the coating trick.

6. How much does it really cost to get started?

Let me be blunt: the $1,599 base price (40W module + machine) is just the starting point. Here's what our actual cost looked like after three months:

• xTool S1 40W bundle – $1,599
• Extended exhaust kit – $129
• Rotary bundle (for cylinders) – $199 (our team wanted to engrave tumblers)
• Air assist pump (already included in the bundle, but some people skip it – don't)
• Honeycomb worktable – $69 (reduces scorch marks)
• Material samples: ~$150 for assorted wood, acrylic, leather, and marking spray
• Fire extinguisher (Class ABC) – $35 (safety requirement from our insurance)
• Enclosure modifications for better ventilation – ~$60 (ducting, clamps, filter refill)

Total: around $2,240. That's 40% more than the sticker price. But I'd rather pay that upfront than get surprised by 'we can't ship this without the rotary' later. The vendor who lists all fees upfront – even if the total looks higher – usually costs less in the end. I've learned to ask 'what's NOT included' before 'what's the price.'

7. What projects actually work well on the xTool S1 40W?

Genuine project ideas that our team has done successfully:

• Custom branded coasters – cork, wood, or slate. The 40W marks slate beautifully in grayscale.
• Leather wallets – cut and engraved genuine leather. We used 1.2mm veg‑tan.
• Acrylic signs – cast acrylic (not extruded) cuts cleanly up to 3mm. Colored acrylic gives nice contrast.
• Anodized aluminum nameplates – the laser removes the anodization to reveal bright metal. Great for industrial tags.
• Wooden jigsaw puzzles – 3mm plywood, press‑fit pieces. The precision is impressive.

One project that surprised me: we engraved a QR code onto a 2mm stainless steel dog tag (with marking spray) and it scanned perfectly. The depth was about 0.05mm, but it's permanent. The conventional wisdom is that diode lasers are too weak for metal – and technically they are for cutting – but for marking, the 40W is actually pretty capable. Simple.

I'm not 100% sure about long‑term diode longevity – we've only had the machine for 8 months. Based on xTool's rated lifespan of 10,000 hours, that's roughly 5 years of daily 8‑hour operation. But if you use it in a dusty environment, the module might degrade faster. Take this with a grain of salt: I'd budget for a replacement module around year 4. Better to plan ahead than scramble when it fails on a deadline.