What Can the xTool S1 Cut? An Honest Breakdown by Module

There's No Single Answer to "What Can You Cut With a Laser Cutter?"

If you've ever searched "what can you cut with a laser cutter," you've probably noticed the answers range from "everything!" to "you'll burn your house down trying." Both are wrong. The real answer depends on the machine, the module, and the material you're working with.

I've been running xtool-s1 machines since early 2023. In that time, I've tested all three module options, ruined more material than I'd like to admit, and racked up roughly $4,000 in wasted materials and repairs. This article is the checklist I wish I'd had on day one.

First: Know Which Setup You're Running

The xTool S1 isn't one machine. It's a platform that takes different laser modules, and each one has its own capabilities and limitations. Before you plan a project, figure out which of these three scenarios applies to you:

• Scenario A: Stock S1 with the 20W blue diode module.
• Scenario B: Upgraded to the 40W diode module.
• Scenario C: Running the xtool s1 1064nm infrared laser module.

Walk through each one and see where you land.

Scenario A: The Stock 20W Module

The 20W diode module is the baseline. It's genuinely capable for a desktop machine, but it has a clear lane.

What cuts well: Basswood, plywood, and MDF up to 5mm in a single pass. Cast acrylic up to 5mm if you dial in the speed and power settings. I've pushed 8mm wood and acrylic with multiple passes—it works, but you'll get charred edges. Vegetable-tanned leather, cardstock, cork, and paper are all easy wins.

Here's something I learned the hard way: acrylic isn't acrylic. Cast acrylic cuts cleanly with a frosty white edge. Extruded acrylic melts and re-welds at the cut line, leaving you with gooey, joined edges. I assumed "same material" meant the same results across both types. Didn't verify. My first batch of forty acrylic keychains ended up welded shut. That was a $200 lesson in material science.

What doesn't work: Bare metal, transparent glass without a coating, and anything reflective. Glass engraving requires a marking compound or a layer of dish soap for the diode beam to bite. And PVC—we'll get to that in its own section, because that mistake cost me nearly $1,000.

Scenario B: The 40W Module Upgrade

Everything I'd read about the 40W module said "more power, faster cutting." True. What the marketing didn't mention: it doesn't change the fundamental physics of a diode laser.

The 40W cuts faster, handles 10mm wood and 8mm acrylic in fewer passes, and can mark anodized aluminum—something the 20W simply can't do. If you're making products in volume, the upgrade pays for itself in time saved.

But it still will not cut bare metal. A 40W blue diode beam can burn through coatings and anodizing, but it cannot melt solid aluminum or steel. I learned this after buying $300 worth of thin aluminum sheet for testing. The result: scorched coating and a very intact sheet of aluminum.

The conventional wisdom is "more watts equals more capability." My experience testing both modules across 18 months suggests otherwise. More watts gives you speed and depth in materials you can already handle. It doesn't unlock new material categories.

Scenario C: The 1064nm Infrared Module

This is where the platform gets interesting. The xtool s1 1064nm infrared laser module uses a fundamentally different wavelength, and it exists for one main job: marking.

My first mistake was assuming "module" meant "same thing, more power." I expected it to cut thin metal like the industrial fiber lasers you see in YouTube videos. That's not how it works. The 1064nm beam is absorbed by metals and some dark plastics, but it doesn't have the intensity to cut through sheet metal. It's a marking tool—and arguably the most interesting capability the S1 offers.

What it does well:

• Permanent marks on stainless steel, aluminum, and titanium. No coating, no marking paste needed. The beam creates a surface oxidation mark that's permanent.
• High-contrast marks on dark plastics. ABS and certain nylons take a clean, readable mark.
• Color marking on stainless steel. This is the "color fiber laser" effect you've seen on social media. By adjusting pulse frequency and power, you get controlled oxidation layers that reflect gold, blue, purple, and even green tones. It looks printed. It's actually heat-induced color, and it's genuinely impressive for a desktop laser.

People compare the S1 with the infrared module to entry-level fiber lasers for a reason. A dedicated 30W MOPA fiber laser will do color metal marking at production speed, but it's a one-trick pony—you can't cut wood with it. The S1 gives you infrared marking and diode cutting in one chassis. That's the trade-off.

Laser Cut PVC? Absolutely Not.

"Laser cut pvc" is one of the most searched laser questions, and the answer is the closest thing to a universal no in this industry. Not "it depends." Just no.

PVC contains chlorine. When a laser heats it, the material decomposes and releases hydrogen chloride gas. That gas reacts with moisture in the air—including the air inside your machine—and forms hydrochloric acid. It corrodes the metal rails, the optics, the electronics, and your lungs.

In September 2024, I took a rush order for plastic tags. The supplier listed the material as "compatible with laser cutting," and I assumed it would behave like acrylic. It didn't. About thirty tags in, everyone in the shop was coughing, and I noticed a film forming on the inside of the enclosure. It wasn't condensation. It was acid.

Thermal decomposition products include hydrogen chloride and other chlorinated compounds.

That warning is easy to find in the Safety Data Sheet if you look. I didn't look. The repair cost $820: new optics and a damaged Y-axis rail. The supplier's claim was based on industrial CO₂ systems with high-volume extraction, not a desktop diode laser in a small enclosure. My machine paid the price.

xTool S1 Software Download: Do It Right

For the xtool s1 software download, go to the official xTool website only. The software is called xTool Creative Space (XCS), and it's free. It handles design, material presets, and machine control in one app.

I once ended up on a third-party download site that looked identical to the official page. The file triggered a malware warning on my computer. I dodged that one, but it taught me to always verify the domain. The official XCS page is the only source I trust for it now. LightBurn also works with the S1 if you prefer its interface. I use both: XCS for quick jobs, LightBurn for more complex files.

Which Scenario Are You Actually In?

If you're still deciding, here's a straightforward breakdown:

• Cutting wood, acrylic, leather, or making small products: the 20W stock module is enough. Go with the 40W if speed and thickness matter to you.
• Marking metal parts, tags, or tools: the 1064nm infrared module is non-negotiable. It's the only S1 module that marks bare metal without prep.
• Wanting those colored metal effects: the "color fiber laser" look is achievable with the 1064nm module, but the settings are finicky. Budget for practice time.
• Production-scale acrylic or wood cutting: be honest with yourself—a CO₂ laser is the better tool. The S1 is excellent for small runs, but a 60W CO₂ system will outpace it for volume.

Check the module label printed on the housing. Knowing which one you own is the first step to getting the result you want instead of a melted experiment.

Bottom Line

The xTool S1 is one of the most versatile desktop laser platforms I've worked with. What was true about diode lasers in 2020—that they were too weak for serious work—has changed. The technology genuinely improved. But the fundamentals haven't: a laser only works well when it's matched to the right material. Force it, and you'll waste material, money, and time.

Match the module to the material. Respect the limits. And never, ever cut PVC.