I've been running a small workshop for about three years now. In that time, I've burned through more than my fair share of materials trying to figure out what a diode laser like the xTool S1 can and cannot do well. I've made mistakes that cost me over $800 in wasted materials—acrylic that melted instead of cut, wood that charred beyond use, and metal that just reflected the beam straight back at the module (that was a scary day).
If you're on the fence between an xTool S1 and something like a cheap CO₂ laser or a lower-power diode, I've been there. Let me walk you through what I found after testing the S1 (20W and 40W modules) side-by-side with a couple of alternatives. I'll focus on the stuff that actually matters for a small business or serious hobbyist: material range, precision, cut quality, and the hidden costs nobody talks about.
What We're Comparing: The xTool S1 vs. CO₂ vs. Budget Diode
Before diving into specifics, here's the framework I used for comparison. I tested the xTool S1 (with both the 20W and 40W modules) against a 60W CO₂ laser (typical entry-level for small businesses) and a 5W budget diode laser (the kind you find on Amazon for $300). I evaluated them across five dimensions: material compatibility, precision and detail, cutting thick acrylic, maintenance and longevity, and long-term cost.
Full disclosure: I bought the xTool S1 myself, and the CO₂ laser was borrowed from a friend's shop. No sponsorships.
Dimension 1: Material Compatibility — Where the S1 Shines (and Where It Falls Short)
This is the big one. Everyone asks: "Can the xTool S1 cut metal?" The short answer is yes, but only thin materials. The 40W module can mark and engrave anodized aluminum, stainless steel, and even some coated metals. But cutting? Forget it. The S1 cannot cut steel sheets. I learned this the hard way when I tried to cut through 1mm stainless steel with the 40W module—it just left a scorch mark. $40 of material gone, lesson learned.
But here's the thing: the CO₂ laser can't cut metal either, not without adding fiber laser capabilities. So in this dimension, the S1 and the CO₂ are closer than you'd think. The budget diode? It barely marks metal at all.
The surprise: The S1 handles wood and leather beautifully. The 40W module cuts 3mm birch plywood in one pass at about 12mm/s. That's faster than the budget diode, and the edge quality is noticeably cleaner. For acrylic, though, the CO₂ still wins. More on that next.
"If you're working mostly with wood, leather, and coated metals for marking, the S1 is a fantastic fit. If you need to cut thick acrylic regularly, look at CO₂."
Dimension 2: Cutting Thick Acrylic — The xTool S1's Biggest Limitation
I'll be honest here: the xTool S1 can cut acrylic, but it's not ideal. The 40W module at 85% power cuts 3mm cast acrylic in about three passes with a clean edge. Thicker (6mm) cast acrylic takes five to six passes and the edge starts to get a bit frosty. Extruded acrylic? Forget it—it tends to crack under the thermal stress.
The CO₂ laser cuts 6mm acrylic in one pass, beautifully. Clean edges, no frosting, no cracking. This is where the CO₂ laser's longer wavelength makes a real difference.
But here's the counter-intuitive part: for thin acrylic (1.5mm or 2mm), the S1 is actually fine. I've made dozens of small signs and displays using 2mm cast acrylic, and the results are good enough for most customers. It's just not as fast as a CO₂ laser.
My advice: If 80% of your work involves thin acrylic (under 3mm), the S1 is workable. If you're cutting 6mm+ acrylic regularly, the CO₂ laser is a better fit.
Dimension 3: Precision and Detail — Where Diode Lasers Excel
This surprised me. Conventional wisdom says CO₂ lasers are more precise because they're more powerful and have better beam profiles. In practice, for engraving fine details, the xTool S1 (especially with the 20W module) produces cleaner results than the 60W CO₂ laser I tested.
Here's why: the S1's diode laser has a smaller spot size at its focal point, which means it can resolve finer lines. I engraved a QR code (about 15x15mm) on a piece of leather, and the S1's version was scannable with no issues. The CO₂ laser's version was slightly blurry around the edges—still scannable, but less crisp.
For that matter, the S1 handled small text (around 4pt) on coated stainless steel better than the CO₂ laser did. The CO₂ laser's wider beam tends to spread the heat, bluring fine details on metals. The S1's narrower beam keeps everything sharp.
"If you're doing detailed engravings—especially on metals or small objects—the S1 might actually be the better choice, even compared to a CO₂ laser."
The budget diode? It couldn't even attempt the 4pt text. It's just not powerful enough for metal marking.
Dimension 4: Maintenance and Durability — The S1 is Modular, CO₂ is Messy
I've had the S1 for about 18 months now. The modular design is a genuine advantage. When I upgraded from the 20W to the 40W module, it took about 15 minutes. No realignment, no adjustment. It just worked.
The CO₂ laser? I've watched my friend deal with tube replacements every 12-18 months (a $300 part) and mirror alignment every few months. It's messy. CO₂ tubes are fragile and expensive.
The budget diode laser was cheaper upfront, but the build quality shows. The rails started getting sticky after about six months. I ended up replacing it with the S1.
The lesson: The S1's modularity is a real-world benefit if you might want more power later, or if something breaks. You're not replacing the whole machine.
Dimension 5: Long-Term Cost — What the Price Tag Doesn't Tell You
Let's talk money. The xTool S1 with 20W module is about $799 as of January 2025. The 40W module adds another $350. The budget diode laser was $300. The 60W CO₂ laser my friend bought? $2,800.
But the price tag isn't the whole story. I've spent about $200 on accessories for the S1 (air assist, honeycomb bed, rotary attachment). The budget diode came with nothing. The CO₂ laser needed a chiller (another $400) and ventilation setup ($150).
After 18 months, my total cost for the S1 setup is about $1,350 (including the 40W upgrade). The CO₂ setup cost over $3,500 in the same period (including the tube replacement).
For small volume work (under 50 pieces per week), the S1 is significantly cheaper to own and operate. The CO₂ laser only makes financial sense if you're running production volumes—hundreds of pieces per week—where speed and cut thickness matter more.
Final Verdict: Which One Should You Buy?
After all that testing, here's my straightforward take:
- Buy the xTool S1 if: You're a small business owner or serious hobbyist who works mainly with wood, leather, paper, and thin acrylic (under 3mm). You need to mark or engrave metals (anodized aluminum, stainless steel). You want a modular, low-maintenance system that won't break the bank. You value precision in fine details.
- Consider a CO₂ laser if: You cut thick acrylic (6mm+) regularly. You're doing production runs (100+ pieces per week) where speed matters. You have the budget for maintenance, a chiller, and ventilation.
- Skip the budget diode laser if: You're serious about quality. The cheap options are fine for learning or occasional use, but they'll frustrate you if you need consistent results.
The xTool S1 isn't perfect. I've had my share of failures—melted acrylic, charred wood, wasted metal sheets. But the honest truth is: for the price, it delivers results that most small businesses would be happy with. And if I know one thing from my three years of mistakes, it's that the best tool is the one that fits your actual workflow, not the one that looks best on paper.
Hope this helps you avoid the mistakes I made.
