xtool s1: 7 Questions I Wish Someone Had Answered Before I Bought Mine (Costly Mistakes Included)

Look, I'm not here to give you a perfect rundown. I'm here to tell you what I screwed up so you don't have to. I bought an xtool s1 about eight months ago, and I've made about $1,200 worth of mistakes in materials, extra parts, and redo time. So, here are the questions I wish someone had answered directly before I clicked 'buy.'

1. Does the xtool s1 really need a dedicated exhaust fan?

Honestly? Yes. But I didn't think so at first. Everything I'd read online said, 'Just vent it out a window.' In practice, I found that a $30 desk fan pushed into a window screen was a joke. I learned this after my first big acrylic cut job in late 2023. The smoke filled my home office. My wife wasn't thrilled.

You don't need an industrial system, but you do need a dedicated xtool s1 exhaust fan. I bought the official one (mistake #1: trying to save $50 with a cheaper inline fan that didn't fit the tubing). The official unit moves enough air that I can run the 20W module in a closed room for hours without issues. According to basic ventilation math (which I ignored), you want roughly 200 CFM for a desktop unit like this. The official fan hits that. Don't cheap out. It's not worth the headache (and the smell).

2. Can the xtool s1 20W laser really cut metal?

This is where the hype gets dangerous. The conventional wisdom on some forum posts is that a 20W laser can 'cut metal.' My experience? Sorta, but not how you think. I made this mistake in September 2023. I tried to cut a 1mm aluminum sheet for a small enclosure. It didn't work. The laser just scratched it. I wasted $45 on that sheet plus two hours of my time.

What the 20W diode laser *can* do is engrave anodized aluminum and mark stainless steel. I've done it, and it looks clean. But cutting? Forget about it unless we're talking about extremely thin (under 0.5mm) mild steel with multiple passes and serious air assist. I have a friend who runs a small metal fab shop, and he laughed when I told him what I tried. He said, 'If you want to cut metal, get a fiber laser or a plasma cutter.' So yep, listen to the pros. The xtool s1 is amazing for wood and acrylic; that is its sweet spot.

3. What kind of table do I need for a laser engraver?

This was another thing I just didn't consider. I set my laser engraver table on a cheap IKEA desk in my garage. Big mistake. The vibrations from the machine caused alignment issues, and the desk wasn't level. My first few projects had wonky edges. I once ordered 50 pieces of wood (about $35 worth) to test engrave, and every single one had a slight skew because my table was off by 2 degrees. Straight to the trash.

You want a sturdy, vibration-free workbench. I ended up buying a proper 4x2-foot workbench from a hardware store for about $150. It's heavy, it's level, and I installed some rubber feet for extra stability. Also, make sure you have space for the xtool s1 enclosure (which is fairly large). I had to rearrange my whole garage to fit it. Measure your space first, seriously.

4. Is the xtool s1 good for leather engraving? (I'll save you the $200 mistake)

Yes, but with a massive caveat. I thought any best leather engraving machine would just work. I bought a $200 batch of leather blanks for keychains and wallets. The first cut smelled like a burnt hair factory. Plus, the smoke residue stained some of the lighter leather pieces. I ruined about $60 worth of material in one afternoon.

Here's the thing: the xtool s1 will engrave and cut leather beautifully, but you MUST mask the leather with painter's tape. This prevents smoke staining. Also, the 20W module needs lower power for leather than you'd think. I was running it too hot. Now I use a speed of 300 mm/s at 60% power for 3mm leather, and it's perfect. The fumes are still nasty, which brings me back to the exhaust fan point. If you're doing leather work, that fan isn't optional. It's a safety thing.

5. Should I get the 20W module or wait for a 40W?

Honestly, I'm not sure if waiting was the right call. I bought the xtool s1 20w laser and later added the 40W module. My best guess is that it depends on what you cut most. The 20W is fantastic for fine detail engraving. It's also lighter, so the gantry moves faster. I've never fully understood why some people say the 40W is always better. In my workshop, the 20W runs 80% of the time for small signs and personal gifts. The 40W comes out when I need to cut thick acrylic (over 6mm) or plywood quickly. The 40W is also not a solid upgrade for cutting metal; it still struggles. So, if you mostly do engraving and thin materials, the 20W is enough. Save your money. If you cut thick wood or acrylic daily, go for the 40W.

6. What about the total cost? The price I saw online wasn't the final number.

The $500-ish base price for the xtool s1 is just the entry point. I now calculate a 'total cost of ownership' before any purchase. Call it the TCO thinking. My actual cost broke down like this:

• Machine: ~$500
• 20W module (I bought it with the machine): ~$200
• Exhaust fan & ducting: ~$120
• Rotary tool (for cylindrical engraving like cups): ~$100
• Honeycomb panel & air assist: ~$80
• Materials for learning (I ruined a lot): ~$150
• Workbench & lighting: ~$200

That's roughly $1,350 before I even made my first marketable product. The 'cheap' desktop laser turned into a significant investment. So, when someone asks 'is the xtool s1 cheap?', I say no. It's affordable, but it's not cheap. Budget for the extras. The $700 all-inclusive bundles they offer actually make sense from a TCO perspective, even if they look expensive upfront. I wish I'd just bought the bundle.

7. What's one thing I'd tell my past self?

Stop being so impatient. I ruined a lot of material (and money) by rushing the calibration and not reading the manual. The xtool s1 is a solid machine, but it's not a kitchen appliance. You need to learn material settings, focus, and airflow. And for the love of everything, get the exhaust fan before you start. (Ugh, I can still smell that first acrylic burn).