xTool S1 FAQ: Everything Beginners Ask About the Desktop Laser (2025)

So you're looking at the xTool S1. Maybe you saw a TikTok of it engraving a leather wallet, or you're tired of your current machine's limitations. Whatever brought you here, you've got questions. I'm an office administrator who ended up in charge of our small workshop's equipment. I don't have a PhD in lasers—I just use the thing every day. Here are the real answers to the questions I had (and that I get from other beginners).

Can the xTool S1 with a 40W module really cut acrylic?

Short answer: Yes, but with caveats.

The 40W diode module is the go-to for cutting. What most people don't realize is that while the machine can cut acrylic, the quality of the cut depends heavily on the type of acrylic. Cast acrylic tends to get cloudy or have a frosted edge with a diode laser, while extruded acrylic cuts much cleaner.

I want to say we can cut up to about 10mm (3/8 inch) thick extruded acrylic in a couple of passes. It's not like slicing butter with a 60W CO2 laser. But for small parts, signs, and prototypes? Absolutely. Here's something vendors won't tell you: the 'cutting thickness' spec on the box is for soft materials like balsa wood. For acrylic, you'll need to dial back your expectations and run multiple passes.

"The first time I tried to cut a thick piece of cast acrylic, I ended up with a melted, frosted edge. Saved $20 on the material, wasted an hour of machine time. Switched to extruded, and it was night and day."

Per FTC guidelines (ftc.gov), claims must be truthful. So I'll be truthful: the 40W module is a capable acrylic cutter for hobbyists and light commercial work, but it's not an industrial replacement.

Is the xTool S1 good for paper laser cutting?

Yes, and it's one of its best-kept secrets.

Paper laser cutting is where the S1 really shines. The 20W or 40W diode module has a very fine kerf (the width of the cut), which means you get incredibly detailed cuts on paper and cardstock. I use it for making custom packaging inserts, prototypes, and even intricate invitations. No scorching if you have the air assist on and your settings dialed in.

Put another way: if your primary business is paper crafts, invitations, or packaging mockups, the S1 is a fantastic tool. The desktop form factor is perfect for a workshop corner. You don't need a massive industrial laser for this.

One pro-tip: Use a honeycomb workbed and good air assist. It keeps the paper flat and prevents the flames from crawling under the material. I learned this after ruining a batch of 200 custom labels. Let's just say the 'budget setup' choice looked smart until I saw the smoke damage.

xTool S1 vs. a 60W CO2 Laser: Which should a beginner buy?

I get this question all the time. A used or entry-level 60W CO2 laser can cost the same, or even less, than a new xTool S1 with its 40W module. So why not just buy the bigger gun?

Here's the thing: the 60W laser is a different beast. It requires a lot more space. It needs ventilation (often a window exhaust setup). It uses CO2 tubes that have a finite lifespan and can be expensive to replace. It's heavier. And for a beginner, the software and setup can be intimidating.

The xTool S1 is a desktop unit. It's modular. You can swap the laser modules. It uses XCS software which, despite being proprietary, is very beginner-friendly. The air assist is integrated.

If I remember correctly, the decision for us came down to space and support. We don't have a dedicated industrial zone. We have a spare room. The S1 plugs into a standard wall outlet and the air assist is quiet enough to run while we're on the phone. The 60W setup would have required an electrician and a much bigger budget for infrastructure.

Is the 60W a better cutter? Yes, for thick materials. Is it the best laser engraver for beginners? Probably not. The S1 is a better learning platform that you can upgrade as your skills grow.

What materials can the xTool S1 handle (and which can't it)?

Here's the realistic list from my experience:

• Wood: Great. Basswood, plywood, MDF up to about 10mm with the 40W.
• Acrylic: Good for extruded, okay for cast (expect cloudiness on edges).
• Leather: Excellent for engraving and light cutting. Real leather smells bad; keep ventilation on.
• Glass: Engraving only (with a special coating or on the rotary tool). Don't try to cut it.
• Metal: The 40W module can mark some metals (like anodized aluminum) but cannot cut them. You need a fiber laser for that.

What it can't do: Cut clear, unreinforced glass. Cut thick metals. Engrave stone effectively without a special setup. And don't believe the hype about cutting 'any material.' It's a diode laser—it's limited by wavelength (455nm). It won't cut clear materials well.

"A vendor once told me their cheap laser could 'cut anything.' I said 'standard size' for a job. We were using the same words but meaning different things. Discovered this when the order arrived and the material was completely scorched. Trust, but verify."

The rotary tool (RA2 Pro): Is it worth it for cylindrical engraving?

Yes, but only if you actually engrave bottles, mugs, or pens.

If your business involves personalized drinkware, the rotary tool turns the S1 from a flatbed engraver into a cylindrical engraver. It's a pretty clever system—it uses wheels to rotate the object in sync with the laser head.

Here's an industry insider tip: the RA2 Pro works well, but it requires careful setup. You need to measure your object's circumference and input it into the software. The first time I tried to engrave a wine bottle, I got a stretched-out design because I mismeasured the diameter. I had to redo the whole project. Cost me an hour and a bottle.

For the price, it's a solid add-on if you have a clear use case. For a beginner asking about the xTool S1 engraving capabilities, just know that it's an optional accessory, not a core feature.

What about the 20W vs. 40W module? Which should I get?

If you're on a budget: Get the 20W to start. You can always buy the 40W module later because the system is modular. That's the beauty of it.

If you know you'll be cutting thick acrylic or hardwood: Get the 40W. The extra power gives you more speed and capability. I've seen the 20W struggle to cut 6mm birch plywood in one pass, while the 40W handles it easily.

The cost difference between the modules is significant. A 20W bundle can be had for significantly less. But the 40W module, purchased separately, is a premium. My advice: think about your most common project material. If it's paper and thin wood, the 20W is perfect. If it's acrylic and thick leather, go for the 40W. You can't go wrong either way, but you'll be frustrated if you buy the 20W and immediately want to do 10mm acrylic cuts.

Based on publicly listed prices, January 2025. Prices change, so verify current rates.