I'll just say it: if you think a diode laser is a ‘starter toy’ before you graduate to CO₂, you're missing the point. And if you think you can just slap any old laser engraver on your desk and start cutting 5mm acrylic with no issues, you're about to waste money. I know, because that was me about 18 months ago.
I've been running an xTool S1 for over a year now, handling mostly B2B prototyping jobs and custom runs for makers. I've made (and documented) enough mistakes to fill a small binder. But here's the thing that took me the longest to figure out: the S1 isn't a compromise. It's a different tool, and treating it like a weak CO₂ laser is where most of the problems start.
The Assumption That Cost Me $890
In Q3 of 2024, I took a rush order for 150 pieces on 3mm MDF. Client needed them cut, engraved, and packed in 4 days. I assumed the settings that worked perfectly on my test piece would scale. They didn't. The first 50 pieces had charring along the edges that looked like the laser had taken a nap halfway through. $890 in materials straight to the trash, plus a 1-week delay that cost me the client's repeat business.
That's when I learned my first big lesson: the S1's 40W module cuts MDF beautifully, but it needs clean exhaust and the right focal height shift for production runs. The test piece was cut with the air assist maxed and a fresh honeycomb bed. The production run had a slightly dirty exhaust filter and a piece of MDF that wasn't perfectly flat. Small variables, massive difference. After that disaster, I created a pre-flight checklist that I still use. Here's the short version:
Pre-Run Checklist (S1 Specific)
- Exhaust flow: If you're using the xTool S1 exhaust system (or any inline fan), check the filter. A partially clogged filter drops cutting quality by about 30%.
- Material flatness: Warped MDF or acrylic will shift the focal point. I use the honeycomb worktable with a couple of low-tack magnets to hold things flat now.
- IR laser alignment: If you're using the 1064nm IR laser module (xTool S1 IR laser) for marking metal, do a quick test on a scrap piece. That module has a tiny focal point, and it's unforgiving if your material height changes.
Why the IR Module Is a Game-Changer (But Also a Trap)
Let's talk about the xTool S1 IR laser. I bought it because I wanted to mark stainless steel and aluminum for small production runs. It works. Surprisingly well, actually. But here's what the marketing doesn't tell you: the 1064nm wavelength is completely invisible. You need proper laser safety glasses, and I'm not talking about the cheap green ones that come with some desktop units.
The most frustrating part of this? I assumed that because the S1 is enclosed, I didn't need to worry about the IR beam. But that enclosure isn't always 100% sealed, especially if you've modified it for air assist or a rotary bundle. The IR beam can reflect off metal surfaces inside the enclosure and hit you in the face. Trust me, you don't want to find out the hard way if your safety glasses are rated for 1064nm. (The correct rating is OD 6+ at that wavelength, per safety standards from CDRH.)
Cutting Acrylic? Don't Hand-Cut It
One of the keywords I keep seeing is “how to cut acrylic sheet by hand.” Look, if you've got an S1 on your desk and you're considering scoring and snapping acrylic with a utility knife, you're doing yourself a disservice. Hand-cutting acrylic by hand for anything more than a single piece is inconsistent. The edge clarity depends on your scoring pressure, the plastic grade, and whether you breathe wrong.
On the S1 (with the 20W or 40W module), cutting cast acrylic is a matter of dialing in the right speed and power. My baseline for 3mm cast acrylic: 6mm/s at 90% power with two passes. But here’s the catch: extruded acrylic behaves differently. It leaves a “frosty” edge unless you use a lower power and multiple quick passes. I wasted about $200 in extruded acrylic before I figured that out.
To Those About to Buy an xTool S1: Your Exhaust Matters More Than You Think
I see a lot of questions about the xTool S1 exhaust. Some people try to vent out a window with a cheap dryer hose. That works if you’re only engraving a business card. But if you’re cutting MDF, acrylic, or leather for any volume, you need a proper inline fan. The S1’s included fan is decent, but upgrading to a 4-inch inline fan (like those from AC Infinity) made a night-and-day difference. My filter now lasts 3x longer, and the smoke doesn’t settle back onto the lens, which used to be a weekly cleaning hassle.
So, Should You Buy the xTool S1?
Here’s my honest take after a year of heavy use: The S1 is the best desktop diode laser for someone who wants to do real work, not just hobby projects. Its modular design (swapping between 10W, 20W, and 40W heads) and the rotary bundle for cylindrical objects make it incredibly versatile. But it’s not a set-and-forget toy. You need to understand the nuances: focal height, material-specific settings, and the importance of exhaust.
I know some people will say, “Just get a CO₂ laser if you want to cut acrylic.” Fair point, but a CO₂ setup of comparable quality to the S1’s 40W system costs about $3,000 more. For my production runs (typically 10-200 pieces per job), the S1 pays for itself in about 8 months. The fundamentals of laser engraving haven’t changed, but the execution has transformed with tools like this S1. What was the ‘best practice’ in 2020—namely, that you needed a CO₂ or fiber laser for any serious work—simply isn’t true anymore. The industry is evolving, and this tool is part of that change.
Bottom line: The xTool S1 isn't perfect, but it's a workhorse if you treat it with respect. Learn from my mistakes, and you'll save a few hundred dollars and a lot of frustration. (Prices as of Jan 2025; verify current rates.)
