xTool S1 vs. The Learning Curve: Why Your First Leather Settings Are Probably Wrong

The 24-Hour Panic That Changed My Settings (and My Process)

In March 2024, a client called at 4 PM on a Thursday. They needed 25 small leather keychain prototypes for a Friday afternoon pitch to a major retailer. Normal turnaround for this kind of work is three business days. I had 23 hours.

The client wasn’t a beginner. They’d sent a .svg file that looked clean. I had my xTool S1, a 20W module installed, and I pulled up my standard leather settings table. I’ve used this table for two years. It’s worked on cheap scrap from Amazon. I was confident.

I ran the first test pass on their leather (which they’d provided for the prototypes). The cut was incomplete. I bumped the power by 5%. The edges charred so badly the leather warped. The third test pass looked like a burn victim. I had 18 hours left and I’d just ruined $150 worth of their material.

So glad I didn’t panic and just re-run with higher power. Instead, I stopped, grabbed the rotary attachment, and went back to basics. The lesson cost me a night of sleep and nearly cost my client a $12,000 deal. Here’s what I now know about xTool S1 settings, broken down by the three things that fool me (and probably you) the most.

Dimension 1: Generic Leather Settings vs. Real Leather Settings

This is the biggest trap in desktop laser engraving. Most buyers focus on power and speed (the obvious factors) and completely miss leather type, thickness, and tanning method (the overlooked factors that can add 50% more time to your job).

The Generic Table Approach (What I Used)

Source: Generic xTool S1 community chart. Power: 80%. Speed: 200 mm/min. Passes: 1.

It says “Leather.” That’s it. One setting for all leather.

The Real Settings Approach (What I Should Have Used)

I now test three settings based on my client’s actual material. This is for genuine leather (not bonded or synthetic):

• Vegetable-tanned leather (1.2-1.5mm thick): Power 75%, Speed 250mm/min, 2 passes. This leather cuts cleaner because it’s less oily. The edges darken but don’t char as easily.
• Chrome-tanned leather (1.5-2.0mm thick): Power 85%, Speed 200mm/min, 1 pass. This is what my client had. It’s oilier and more heat-sensitive. The initial 80% power setting was too aggressive for this specific hide.
• Thick tooling leather (3.0mm+): Power 90%, Speed 150mm/min, 3 passes. Only use the 40W module for this. The 20W will struggle and create inconsistent kerfs.

I still kick myself for not asking the client: “What type of tanning?” That one question would have saved me two hours of testing. I was in a rush, so I skipped the questions. Now I have a mandatory 60-second pre-job check with every new leather client.

Dimension 2: Standard Engraving vs. xTool S1 Rotary Attachment for Cylindrical Objects

The question everyone asks is: “What’s the max diameter for the rotary attachment?” The question they should ask is: “When does the rotary attachment actually become necessary instead of just repositioning the object manually?”

I’ve tested four different round things on the xTool S1: a water bottle, a thick wine glass, a narrow pen, and a cylinder that was slightly elliptical. Here’s the real difference.

Manual Repositioning (The “Free” Method)

Works great for: Flat-ish objects, objects with straight lines (like a square vase), and one-off logos where 0.5mm misalignment is okay.

Fails at: Logos that wrap 360 degrees (text will misalign at the seam), tall cylinders (the center of rotation shifts), and tapered objects (like a stemware glass).

I once tried to engrave a 360-degree logo on a stainless steel tumbler using manual rotation. The logo overlapped by 4mm on the back. The client rejected it. Cost: $60 in material and 45 minutes of my time.

The Rotary Attachment Method

Necessary when:

• The object is over 6 inches tall and needs full wrap.
• The object has a non-standard shape (elliptical, tapered).
• You are running a production run (consistency is critical).

Basic xTool S1 Rotary Settings (from my log):

• Rotary speed: 800-1200 RPM (for engraving), 600 RPM (for marking metal).
• Laser power: 50-70% for dark anodized aluminum (this is safe). 80-100% for glass (be careful with repeated passes).
• Focus: Must be adjusted for the curve. Use the supplied jig, or you’ll get blurry edges.

The difference isn’t subtle. Manual repositioning is good for hobbyists. The rotary is essential for anyone trying to sell cylindrical products.

Dimension 3: Standard CO₂/Diode Laser vs. Ultrapulse CO₂ on the xTool S1

I hear a lot of talk about “Ultrapulse” CO₂ lasers, especially when people compare desktop units to industrial ones. There’s a misconception that an Ultrapulse laser is just a faster, more powerful version of a standard CO₂ tube. That’s not really how it works.

Standard CO₂/Diode (Desktop Level)

A standard 20W or 40W CO₂ tube (like in the xTool S1 module) delivers a continuous beam. It cuts through wood and acrylic by literally melting/vaporizing the material in a line. The heat builds up over time. This is why edges can char or warp. This is also why the how hot does a plasma cutter get question comes up—people realize that laser cutting is fundamentally about heat energy, but a 100-amp plasma cutter creates an arc at over 25,000°F. The xTool S1’s CO₂ laser creates radiant heat at around 1,500-2,500°F at the point of contact. They are related in principle but worlds apart in application.

Ultrapulse (Industrial Level)

An Ultrapulse source (like in a $30,000 Trotec or Epilog) delivers many short, high-energy pulses per second. This reduces the heat-affected zone (HAZ) drastically. It cuts material with less charring and cleaner edges.

The critical difference: The xTool S1 uses a standard CO₂ source. It does not have an Ultrapulse mode. “Ultrapulse” is not a feature you can buy as an add-on for this machine. I have tried to replicate the effect by running at higher power with faster passes and compressed air assist. It helps a little, but you are comparing a hammer to a chisel. The xTool S1 is extremely capable for its price, but it is not an industrial laser.

My rule of thumb: If a job requires less than 10% charring on a material like acrylic or thick leather, and the client is paying $500+, I outsource it to a shop with a real Ultrapulse laser. I don’t try to force the xTool S1 to be something it isn’t. The internet is full of videos showing near-perfect cuts on a desktop laser, but those are usually cherry-picked results after 20+ test passes. Real production is different.

Dimension 4: Laser Engraving on Canvas (The Surprising Exception)

This one confused me for a long time. Everyone says “laser can’t do canvas, it will burn.” I tested it on cheap art canvas from a $10 pack. It did burn. But then I tried a high-quality, primed artist’s canvas. It worked. Sort of.

The Common Wisdom: Don’t Laser Canvas

Most blog posts say “avoid canvas” and “don’t engrave fabric.” This is mostly true for synthetic canvas or low-quality cotton with lots of weaving oils. The oils catch fire. The heat melts synthetic fibers.

The Twist: Primed Cotton Canvas + Low Power + Fast Pass

I’ve done about 30 test runs on primed cotton canvas (the kind painters use). Here are settings that work on an xTool S1 with a 20W module:

• Power: 35-45%
• Speed: 400-500 mm/min
• Passes: 1-2 (never more than 2, or the canvas will warp)
• Result: A burn mark that looks like a sepia photograph. It doesn’t cut through. It marks the surface.

Dodged a bullet here. I was one test away from telling my client “it’s impossible” when I realized the problem was the quality and priming of the canvas, not the material itself. The expensive canvas ($25/sheet) engraved perfectly. The cheap stuff ($10 pack) ignited. Now I have a rule: always verify the canvas’s fiber content and primer type before testing. It is not a reliable material for mass production, but for one-off art pieces, it is a very cool effect.

The Final Comparison: When to Use the xTool S1 vs. When to Walk Away

Based on my experience with 200+ jobs and three near-miss disasters, here’s the bottom line on choosing between the xTool S1, a standard CO₂ laser, and a higher-end Ultrapulse source:

• Use the xTool S1 when: The job is prototyping, small-batch production (<50 units), or you need versatility quickly. It’s a fantastic desktop machine for wood, acrylic, and specific leather types. The rotary attachment makes it excellent for small bottles or promotional items.
• Use a standard industrial CO₂ laser (like a $5-10k model) when: You need faster cutting on thicker materials (acrylic over 0.25 inch) or consistent results on metals (using Cermark).
• Walk away / Outsource when: The client wants Ultrapulse-quality edges on acrylic for a store display, zero charring on delicate leather for a high-end bag, or production runs over 200 units on canvas. The xTool S1 can do a lot, but it can’t do everything, and it’s better to lose the job than to ruin the material and the relationship.

Pricing as of May 2024: The xTool S1 with a 20W module is about $600. A 40W upgrade is around $200 more. Rotary attachment: $150. These are ballpark figures based on current listings; verify with vendors. But the cost of a ruined client job? That can easily be $800 in materials plus a lost $12,000 contract. Be smart about your settings, test early, and always ask about the leather tanning first.