xTool S1 Review: Is This Desktop Laser Engraver Worth It for Your Workshop?

Everything You Wanted to Know About the xTool S1

I manage purchasing for a 25-person product development workshop—roughly $80K annually across 8 vendors for tools, materials, and equipment. When we needed a desktop laser engraver that could handle quick-turn prototypes, custom acrylic signage for trade shows, and even some glassware for client gifts, the xTool S1 kept popping up. So I did what I always do: dug into the specs, talked to users, and tested one myself over two months.

Below are the questions I had—and the answers I actually found useful. If you're deciding whether this machine fits your small business, this should save you some time.

1. Can the xTool S1 really cut metal?
2. How does the 20W vs 40W module decision work?
3. Is the rotary tool just a gimmick?
4. What materials can it handle—what can't it?
5. How fast is it for production runs?
6. Software: easy or frustrating?
7. What about safety and ventilation?
8. Worth buying for a small business in Australia?

1. Can the xTool S1 really cut metal?

Short answer: No, not in the way most people mean.

The S1 is a diode-based laser with optional 20W or 40W modules. Diode lasers can't cut sheet metal—no way around that physics. What they can do is mark metal. I tested the 40W module on anodized aluminum and stainless steel dog tags. The result: a clean, permanent dark mark that didn't wipe off. That's useful for serial numbers, small labels, or branding on pre-cut metal blanks.

But if you need to cut 1mm steel or aluminum sheet, you're looking at a CO2 or fiber laser—different machine, different price bracket. I can only speak to the S1's capabilities. If you're cutting structural metal, the calculus is completely different.

2. 20W vs 40W module—which should I get?

Here's the thing: I got the 40W module from the start, and I don't regret it. But I almost didn't.

When I placed the order in late 2024, the 20W was $200 cheaper. Our intended use was mostly wood, acrylic, and leather for signage and packaging prototypes. The 20W would handle that. But after reading a few user forums and one Reddit post that said, "Get the 40W if you ever plan to cut thicker acrylic or speed up production," I upgraded.

What difference did it make?

• Cutting 3mm birch plywood: 40W does it in one pass at 15 mm/s; 20W needed two passes at 10 mm/s.
• Engraving anodized aluminum: similar quality, but the 40W ran about 30% faster on detailed work.
• Thick acrylic (5mm): 40W could barely cut it in two passes; 20W struggled. Honest? If you do a lot of acrylic signage, get a CO2 laser.

For our mixed use, the 40W was worth the extra $200. But if you're only engraving leather and thin wood, the 20W is fine. Your mileage may vary.

3. Is the rotary tool just a gimmick?

That's what I thought. I was wrong.

We got the rotary attachment for engraving wine glasses for client gifts. I assumed it'd be finicky and rarely used. After three months, it's been used on 15+ jobs—wine glasses, tumblers, even some cylindrical metal flasks for a custom order.

Setup took about 15 minutes the first time. Calibration was straightforward: you set the diameter, align the material, and the software handles the rotation mapping. The result on glassware is surprisingly clean—no wobble, consistent depth. The only catch: you need to work slowly. Rushing a rotary engrave is how you get a ruined $40 gift.

4. What materials can it handle—what can't it?

Based on our testing, here's what works:

• Wood: Excellent. Plywood, basswood, balsa, MDF (with good ventilation). Cuts up to about 8mm in one pass with 40W.
• Acrylic: Clear and colored cast acrylic cuts well up to 5mm. Extruded acrylic is hit or miss.
• Leather: Great for engraving; cutting thin leather is fine.
• Glass: Engraving only (coated glass or via rotary). No cutting.
• Anodized aluminum: Marks cleanly with the 40W module.
• Stainless steel: Marks with coating spray (like Enduramark). Don't expect a deep etch.
• Paper/cardboard: Cuts like butter.

What it can't do (and where some reviews get misleading):

• Cut bare sheet metal.
• Engrave clear glass without coating or rotary.
• Cut thick acrylic or polycarbonate reliably.
• Process reflective metals without marking spray.

Standard print resolution for laser engraving is 300 DPI for detailed work. The S1 handles this fine, but don't expect photo-quality reproduction on rough surfaces.

5. How fast is it for production runs?

Let me be direct: this is not a production machine for high volume.

I processed 50 acrylic keychains for a client event. Each one took about 4 minutes to engrave and cut (40W module). That's over 3 hours for 50 units. For a one-off job, it's fine. If you're planning to run 500 units a week, you'll need a faster machine or multiple units.

But for small batch work—custom signage, prototypes, one-off gifts, small runs of branded merchandise—the speed is acceptable. The tradeoff is cost: the S1 is a fraction of the price of a production-grade CO2 laser.

6. Software: easy or frustrating?

Mixed. The included software (xTool Creative Space) is beginner-friendly: drag and drop images, adjust power/speed, send to the machine. It runs on Windows and Mac. For simple jobs, it's fine.

Where it gets frustrating: advanced settings are hidden. For example, adjusting the precise focus height or tweaking the rotary mapping parameters requires digging into menus. And the software occasionally crashes with large files (I lost a 30-minute engrave once—that hurt).

Workaround: I now export designs from LightBurn (which is compatible with the S1 via a plugin). LightBurn is $60 but gives you full control over every parameter. It's worth it if you're doing anything beyond basic engraving.

7. What about safety and ventilation?

This is the part I didn't think about enough before buying.

The S1 produces fumes when cutting acrylic, wood, and leather. The included exhaust fan and hose are adequate for light use, but you need to vent outside or into a filtration system. We set ours up near a window with the hose routed out. It's not ideal—the hose is stiff and the window seal isn't perfect—but it works.

For cutting MDF or any material with resin, the smell is noticeable even with ventilation. I wear a mask now when running longer jobs. Honest advice: budget for a proper enclosure and external ventilation if you're working indoors.

8. Worth buying for a small business in Australia?

This is where I have to be careful. I can only speak to our experience. We're a workshop in Sydney, and we've had the S1 for about 8 weeks.

The good: Price point is reasonable for what you get. Modular design means you can upgrade the laser module later. Customer support responded within 24 hours when we had a software issue. The rotary tool is genuinely useful. Material versatility is great for a single machine.

The bad: Shipping to Australia added about $180 and took 12 days. The power cord is US-style, so you need an adapter. No local service center—if something breaks, you're mailing it back.

Would I buy it again for our use case? Yes. But I'd plan for the extras: a ventilation solution, LightBurn software ($60), a fire extinguisher (seriously—laser cutting + flammable material = have one nearby). Total cost with 40W module, rotary, and accessories was about $1,800 AUD as of January 2025 (verify current pricing; rates change fast).

For a small business that needs desktop laser capabilities for prototyping, custom gifts, or low-volume production, the S1 is a solid buy. If you're doing heavy production or cutting metal, it's not the right tool. That's not a flaw—it's just the right machine for a specific job.