Who is This For?
If you've got an xtool s1 sitting in your workshop and you're wondering about xtool s1 metal engraving—specifically, what it can and can't do—this checklist is for you. I'm a quality compliance manager at a laser equipment company. Every quarter, I review deliverables from dozens of small business users. Over the past 2 years, I've rejected about 15% of first-time submissions because the settings were simply wrong for the material.
The xtool s1 laser engraver price puts it in a sweet spot for small workshops, but a lot of people assume it can't touch metal at all. That's a simplification.
Below are 4 steps I walk through before every metal job. They are not a tutorial on how to turn a 20W diode into a fiber laser (you can't), but a practical checklist to maximize what your xtool s1 can actually do with metal—without ruining a piece or wasting time.
Step 1: Confirm Your Laser Module
This sounds obvious, but I've seen people try to engrave anodized aluminum with the 5W module that came with a starter kit. It barely works. Here's the rule of thumb:
- 20W or 40W diode module? You can mark metals, but only certain types. Direct bare metal engraving? Not really. You'll get a faint mark at best. The laser works by heating the surface, and bare metal reflects too much of the diode wavelength.
- What works: Anodized aluminum (the laser removes the anodized layer, leaving a white mark), coated metals, and metals treated with a marking spray like CerMark or Enduramark.
- What the CO2 module can do: If you've swapped in the CO2 module (optional), you're primarily working with organics. Stick to the diode module for anything metal.
I recommend checking your xtool s1 serial number against the module specs. I had a user once who swore their machine was marked '40W' but the actual laser output was closer to 22W—a mislabeling issue from a third-party reseller. It's rare, but it happens.
One more thing: do not try to cut metal with your xTool S1. It's not a fiber laser, and attempting to cut through anything thicker than foil is a fire risk and a waste of time. The machine is built for engraving and marking, not cutting metal.
Step 2: Material Prep and Settings
Once you've confirmed your module, it's time to dial in the settings. I've found that most failures come from either too much speed (not enough energy to mark the metal) or too much power (blowing through the coating).
Here are the baseline settings I use for anodized aluminum with a 20W diode module at 0.1mm resolution:
- Power: 80-100%
- Speed: 80-150 mm/s (start slow, increase if the mark is too dark)
- Passes: 1-2 (more than 2 passes on the same line can cause the coating to peel or bubble)
- Frequency: If your software shows it, set it to 20-30 kHz for metal marking.
For stainless steel tumblers with a marking spray, the settings are slightly different:
- Power: 95-100%
- Speed: 100-200 mm/s
- Passes: 1-2 (the spray layer burns away, leaving a dark mark)
- Focus: I always check the focus after applying the spray. The coating adds about 0.05-0.1mm to the surface, which can throw off the focus if you don't re-measure.
Here's the thing: most guides online tell you to use a single pass at 90% power. That works 80% of the time. But for xtool s1 metal engraving, the consistency of the metal surface matters. If the anodized layer is uneven (which happens with cheaper tumblers), you'll get thin spots. I always run a small test grid on the bottom of the piece before committing to the final design. It costs me 5 minutes and saves me from throwing away a $20 tumbler.
Step 3: Fixturing and the Rotary Tool
Laser engraving is precise, but only if the workpiece doesn't move. For flat metals (like aluminum sheets or business card blanks), I use painter's tape to hold the corners. Do not use standard masking tape—it leaves a sticky residue when heated. Use low-tack painter's tape.
For cylindrical objects—tumblers, bottles, pens—you'll need the rotary tool that comes with the xtool s1. This is where I see the most errors.
Common mistake: People assume the rotary tool self-centers the object. It does not. You have to manually adjust the rear tail stock to ensure the object is parallel to the laser beam. If it's off by even 2mm, you'll get a skewed engraving that wraps around the cylinder asymmetrically.
Here's my quick fixturing checklist:
- Place the object in the rotary tool rollers. Spin it by hand. Does it wobble? If yes, adjust the tail stock.
- Lower the laser head to the object's surface. Is the focus consistent across the length of the design? If the object tapers (like a pint glass), you'll need to adjust the focus manually at different points. Some users write a custom G-code to compensate, but for most jobs, I just use a shim—a piece of cardboard under the object—to level it.
- Run a dry pass with the laser disabled. Ensure the object doesn't shift during rotation.
- Secure the power cord of the rotary tool so it doesn't snag during operation. I had a job where the cord got caught, the tumbler spun unevenly, and the final engraving looked like a distorted reflection. Total write-off.
Step 4: Marking vs. Engraving—Know the Difference
This is the nuance that most people miss. The xtool s1 is a marking tool for metal, not an engraving tool. If you want to carve a deep pocket into a steel plate, you're using the wrong machine. But for logos, text, and serial numbers, it produces a permanent, high-contrast mark that is perfectly suitable for many commercial applications.
I've seen small jewelry makers use the xtool s1 to mark stainless steel rings with custom text. The result isn't a deep cut; it's a dark oxide layer that is extremely durable. My sister's boyfriend runs a small business branding aluminum graduation caps, and he uses an xtool s1 20W with die cutter machine accessories to hold the caps in place. It works reliably for small batches, but he knows he can't scale it to 200 units per day without upgrading to a larger system.
Here's a check I add for every metal job:
Test for durability: After engraving, wipe the mark with a solvent like acetone or isopropyl alcohol. If it smudges or wipes off, your settings were too low—the mark is only on the surface and won't last. A proper laser mark on anodized aluminum or with marking spray should be resistant to solvents.
I've rejected about 10% of test pieces from new users for this exact reason. They think it's done, but a simple wipe test proves otherwise.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Based on the quality checks I've run, here are the top issues with xtool s1 metal engraving:
- Using the wrong module for the material. The CO2 module will not mark metal. Don't even try.
- Skipping the focus test. The material thickness varies. You must test focus on the actual piece, not on a scrap piece of MDF.
- Overpowering the marking spray. Too much power burns the spray into a brittle layer that flakes off. Start at 85% and work up.
- Assuming all metal is the same. Aluminum, stainless steel, and brass all respond differently. Always run a test grid.
- Ignoring air quality. Laser engraving metal produces fine particulates. Ensure your ventilation system is running and your enclosure is sealed. If you're working with marking spray, the fumes are stronger and may require additional filtration. I upgraded my workshop's intake fan after a particularly bad batch of 50 tumblers left a film on my equipment.
Oh, and about laser engraving plastic settings: please don't use metal settings on plastic. I've seen people try because they think 'it's just the same laser.' Plastic requires much lower power and higher speed. Cutting plastic with metal settings will melt it, produce toxic fumes, and possibly damage your lens. I'd say switch your material profile completely. But that's a topic for another article.
Bottom Line
The xtool s1 is a versatile desktop machine that really does handle metal marking—when you know what to expect. Before you start a metal job, run through this checklist: confirm your module, dial in your settings, fix the workpiece properly, and understand whether you're marking or engraving. That'll save you time, material, and a lot of frustration.
