If you’re a beginner looking at the xTool S1, don’t overthink it: it’s probably the best desktop laser for someone who wants to learn without fighting the machine. After about six months with mine, the learning curve is real—but it’s not the machine’s fault. Most of the headaches came from material settings, software quirks, and my own overconfidence.
I’m the admin who buys for a 15-person product design studio. The owners wanted an in-house laser for rapid prototyping on wood and acrylic. I’d never bought a laser before. Here’s what the research and real-world use taught me—including one mistake that cost us $400.
One big reason to trust this review: I verified the setup process on a second machine.
My first S1 arrived with a dud controller. It would connect to the software but wouldn’t fire the laser. After a few emails with support, they shipped a replacement unit. That gave me a weirdly valuable experience: I set up the machine twice. The second time took half the time. Most of that improvement was just knowing what I was doing, not that the first unit was defective. The actual setup is straightforward—take it out of the box, align the mirrors (barely any adjustment needed on the second go), plug in the cable, and run the test file.
The real work starts after you hit ‘print.’
The 40W Module: Not a Magic Bullet
We got the 40W laser module because I figured "more power = better." I’ll save you the mistake: 40W is great for cutting thicker acrylic (up to 8mm), but it requires a learning curve for fine engraving. The beam is wider, so fine details on thin wood got a little fuzzy. For most of our prototyping—cutting shapes out of 3mm birch plywood—it’s fantastic. For engraving text on a business card holder? I wish I’d kept the 20W module on hand.
Here’s a specific example. We had a rush job: 50 laser-etched leather coasters for a client’s product launch. The S1 with the 40W module handled it fine, but I spent an hour dialing in settings. I used a speed of 200 mm/s and power at 60% for a light etch on full-grain leather. The first test? Burnt edge, too deep. The sweet spot was slower (150 mm/s) and less power (45%). That’s the kind of fiddling you have to expect. There is no “one setting” for leather because the thickness and tanning vary.
The Software Download (The Unexpected Wall)
The biggest stumbling block for beginners: finding and installing the right software. The xTool S1 uses XTool Creative Space. You download it from their website. Sounds simple, right? The issue is that the download page has two or three versions, and the version you need depends on your OS and whether you want to use LightBurn (which the S1 also supports). I spent 45 minutes trying to get the first unit to talk to the software because I’d downloaded a beta version that had a compatibility issue with macOS Sonoma. Lesson learned: always grab the latest stable release from the official download link, not the one that shows up in a Google search.
Styrene Laser Engraving (Yes, It Works)
A client asked for engraved styrene. Honestly, I wasn’t sure it would work. Styrene melts, right? But the xTool S1 handles it, as long as you use the exhaust system on full speed and keep passes quick. I used 250 mm/s at 15% power for a single pass—just a surface mark, not a cut. The material didn’t warp. This is where the S1 shines: for a desktop machine, it’s versatile. But don’t try to cut styrene. It’s a mark/etch only material unless you want a sticky, melted mess.
The $400 Overconfidence Mistake
I knew I should verify the Z-axis height before a large job, but thought 'what are the odds?' Well, the odds caught up with me. I tried to cut a piece of 12mm acrylic with a single pass. The 40W module cannot cut 12mm acrylic in one pass—needs 2-3 passes with cooling in between. I skipped the adjustment, ran the job, and the laser head hit the material because the focus was too high. It left a gouge and a charred mark. That ruined $80 worth of acrylic. Plus, the job was a small batch of 5 pieces for a paying customer—I had to reorder the material, wait 3 days, and work overtime to catch up. Total cost: about $400 in lost materials and rush shipping. Always check your material thickness. Always.
Best Laser Engraver for Beginners? Maybe. Here’s the Catch.
Is it the best laser engraver for beginners? I think it depends on what you want to do. If you want a machine that works out of the box for small wood and acrylic projects, yes. The modular design is brilliant—you can swap modules without tools. The enclosure is safe for a desktop workshop. The included rotary tool for cylindrical engraving (like mugs) is surprisingly decent.
But: the software doesn’t hold your hand. The material settings are a starting point, not gospel. And the rotary tool setup is fiddly—took me 20 minutes to figure out how to mount a cup.
Here’s the thing: most beginners miss the total cost. The machine starts at roughly $1,000. But you need a good exhaust system (the included hose is short), a fire extinguisher, and—if you’re cutting acrylic—a honeycomb work surface to reduce heat. Factor in an extra $200-400 for the full setup.
In my experience, the xTool S1 is a solid choice for a small business or a serious hobbyist. It’s not for someone who wants to press a button and get perfect results. But if you enjoy troubleshooting and learning, it’s a fantastic tool.
Pricing based on publicly listed prices, January 2025. Prices exclude shipping; verify current rates.
