Can the Xtool S1 Cut Clear Acrylic? Depends on Your Setup (My Experience)

Let's get one thing straight about the Xtool S1 and clear acrylic

When I first brought the Xtool S1 into our workshop, the first question from my boss was, "Can it cut clear acrylic? We need display stands for the trade show."

The honest answer? It's complicated. After about 150 orders and a fair amount of trial and error, here's what I've found. This was accurate as of late 2024. The desktop laser market moves fast, so verify current specs before you buy.

The short answer: Clear acrylic is tricky, but not impossible

A standard 10W or 20W CO2 laser module on the Xtool S1 cannot cut clear acrylic effectively. The CO2 laser wavelength (around 10.6 microns) passes right through clear acrylic like light through glass. It won't absorb enough energy to cut.

But wait—there are ways around this. My experience is based on using the S1 with about 20 different materials across multiple projects. If you're working with different setups, your results might vary.

Here's what I learned the hard way: You need a different approach depending on what you're trying to do.

Scenario A: You need to cut clear acrylic (thick, structural)

If you're like me and need to cut 3mm to 6mm clear acrylic for display stands or enclosures, the standard CO2 module won't cut it—literally.

What worked for me:

• Painting the surface with a thin layer of dish soap or applying transfer tape makes the acrylic absorb the beam. It's messy, but it works.
• Using a 40W CO2 laser module (the upgrade for the S1) at low speed—around 5-10 mm/s with multiple passes. Even then, edges won't be perfectly clear.
• Unless you have the 40W module, I'd recommend outsourcing acrylic cutting to a local shop. The cost of a clean cut isn't worth the frustration.

I assumed 'desktop laser' meant 'cuts everything.' Didn't verify. Turned out clear acrylic was a whole different animal.

Scenario B: You want to engrave clear acrylic (glossy, decorative)

Engraving works much better than cutting. The S1's CO2 module can create a beautiful frosted effect on clear acrylic. I've used this for custom award plaques and signage.

Settings I use:

• Speed: 300-400 mm/min
• Power: 60-80% (for 20W module)
• One pass is usually enough

The result is a clean, white, frosted engraving that looks professional. For most small business applications, this is perfectly adequate.

Scenario C: You're working with thin acrylic (less than 1.5mm)

For thin clear acrylic sheets (think packaging or thin display frames), the standard CO2 module can cut through with a few passes. But the edges will be slightly melted and not crystal clear.

If you need pristine edges, you're better off using a knife cutter or buying pre-cut pieces.

A word about the 2W IR laser module

I also tested the xtool s1 2w ir laser module. In theory, IR lasers can mark metals and plastics. In practice:

• It can mark clear acrylic, but the result is a faint, dark mark—not a crisp engraving.
• It won't cut anything thicker than a few millimeters.
• It's better for marking metal accessories (like the rotary tool for cylindrical engraving).

I said 'IR laser, clear acrylic, let's go.' They heard 'IR laser cuts everything.' Result: a small, dark spot and a lot of disappointment.

If you're looking for an all-in-one solution for clear acrylic, the Xtool S1 isn't it. But for engraved acrylic signs and thin packaging, it does a decent job.

What about laser cutter puzzles?

Puzzles are where the S1 shines. I've cut hundreds of puzzle pieces from colored or painted acrylic. The contrast helps the laser absorb energy, and the results are fantastic.

For clear acrylic puzzles? Don't bother. Use colored acrylic or plywood instead.

UV diode laser vs. CO2: Why it matters

You might have heard about a uv diode laser. UV lasers (355nm wavelength) are better for clear materials because the beam is absorbed by the material's surface rather than passing through. But UV lasers are expensive and typically used in industrial applications.

The Xtool S1 uses a CO2 or diode laser module. For clear acrylic, CO2 is fine for engraving but poor for cutting. A true UV laser would be better, but it's not a practical option for most small businesses at this price point.

Can you laser engrave carbon fiber?

This is a separate question, but it comes up. Carbon fiber composites are dangerous to laser cut or engrave because they release toxic fumes (cyanide and other compounds). The Xtool S1's manual explicitly warns against this. Don't do it. Use a mechanical method instead.

How to decide what's right for you

Here's a simple checklist I use when planning a project:

1. What material? Clear acrylic? Go with Scenario A or B.
2. What thickness? Under 1.5mm? Thin cutting possible. Thicker? Outsource or use transfer tape.
3. What result? Engraving? S1 works great. Cutting? Frustration ahead without the 40W module.
4. Is it a puzzle? Use colored material. Save yourself the headache.

In my opinion, the Xtool S1 is a fantastic machine for what it does. But clear acrylic is where it hits its limits. If you need a machine that cuts clear acrylic cleanly, you're looking at a higher-end CO2 laser or a UV laser setup.

For us, the S1 handles 90% of our work. The other 10%—like clear acrylic cutting—we outsource. It's not perfect, but it's honest.