The xTool S1 can cut acrylic cleanly, but you're realistically looking at a maximum thickness of 8-10mm with the 40W module under optimal conditions. For engraving, it handles acrylic beautifully. I've reviewed the output from over 200 test cuts on various acrylic types for our small-batch production runs, and the results are consistent: it's a capable desktop machine for prototyping and light production, not a heavy-duty industrial cutter.
Why I'm Confident in These Numbers
Honestly, when we first got the S1 for our workshop, I was skeptical. The specs looked good on paper, but specs often ignore real-world variables like material consistency and focal length. In our Q1 2024 quality audit, we ran a blind test: identical DXF files sent to our industrial 100W laser and the xTool S1 (40W module). For 3mm and 5mm cast acrylic, the S1's cut edges were nearly as clean—just slower. At 8mm, the difference became obvious (more on that below). The industrial machine powered through; the S1 needed multiple passes and left a slight taper.
It took me about 50 test cuts to understand that the "maximum cutting thickness" claim isn't a single number. It's a range that depends heavily on whether you're using cast acrylic (which cuts like butter and gives a flame-polished edge) or extruded acrylic (which can melt more and leave a rougher edge). Most hobbyist suppliers sell extruded, which is cheaper but less ideal for laser cutting.
Breaking Down the "Can It Cut" Question
Let's get specific. Here's what you can realistically expect, based on my log of test parameters and outcomes:
Cutting Performance by Material & Thickness
With the 20W Module:
Think of this as your engraving and light-duty setup. It will engrave acrylic (both cast and extruded) with fantastic detail. For cutting, it's best for very thin sheets.
- 3mm Cast Acrylic: Can cut, but requires slow speed (2-3mm/s) and multiple passes (2-3). Edge quality is acceptable for internal parts.
- 5mm+ Cast Acrylic: Not recommended for through-cutting. You'll likely melt the acrylic before cutting through cleanly.
With the 40W Module:
This is where the S1 becomes a legitimate cutter for small workshops.
- 3-5mm Cast Acrylic: Cuts cleanly in 1-2 passes at 8-10mm/s. This is its sweet spot. The edge is often clear enough not to need polishing.
- 8-10mm Cast Acrylic: The practical limit. Requires 4-6 passes at very slow speeds (3-5mm/s). You will get a slight taper (the top of the cut is wider than the bottom). For a functional prototype or a sign where the edge isn't visible? Perfectly fine. For a precision optical lens? No.
- Extruded Acrylic of any thickness: It will cut, but you'll almost always get a frosted, melted edge that needs post-processing. (Here's something suppliers won't always highlight: the type of acrylic matters more than the laser's wattage sometimes).
What Files Do You Need?
The most frustrating part for new users? File preparation. You'd think "just send a DXF," but software interpretation varies wildly. The xTool S1 software (xTool Creative Space) works best with .svg or .dxf for vector cuts. For engraving, it accepts .png, .jpg, .bmp.
Critical step everyone misses: Convert all text to outlines/paths in your design software (like Illustrator or CorelDRAW) before exporting. If you don't, and the S1's software doesn't have the exact font installed, it will substitute it, and your engraved sign will look wrong. I've rejected first articles for this exact reason. Now our spec sheet for vendors includes "ALL TEXT MUST BE CONVERTED TO CURVES" in bold.
The Boundary Conditions (When to Look Elsewhere)
The xTool S1 is a fantastic desktop machine, but it has its lanes. Here's when you should consider a different tool:
1. High-Volume, Thick Acrylic Production: If you're cutting hundreds of 10mm acrylic parts daily, the S1's speed and duty cycle won't keep up. You need an industrial laser with a chiller. The S1 is for small batches, prototypes, and custom one-offs.
2. Requiring Perfectly Square Edges on Thick Material: That taper I mentioned on 8mm+ cuts is inherent to the optics of desktop machines. If vertical edge walls are non-negotiable, CNC routing is a better (though messier) alternative.
3. Cutting Polycarbonate or PVC: Never. These materials release chlorine gas when lasered, which is toxic and will corrode your machine and lungs. The S1's material compatibility list is there for a reason.
For small businesses and makers, the S1's modularity is its killer feature. Start with the 20W for engraving wood, leather, and glass, and upgrade to the 40W when you need to cut thicker acrylic. That's a sensible, scalable path. I've seen shops try to start with a giant used industrial laser to "save money," only to get buried in maintenance and cost. The S1 just works. And for the shops that treat their $200 acrylic test orders seriously? Those are the ones I trust with our $2,000 custom fixture orders later.
Note: All speed and pass recommendations are based on tests with xTool-branded lenses and cast acrylic from a single U.S. supplier, circa 2024. Always run your own material tests. Prices and specs for lasers change; verify current capabilities on the manufacturer's site.
