xtool s1 Acrylic Settings: 8 FAQs from 18 Months of Trial and Error

So you've got an xtool s1 and a sheet of acrylic. Maybe you're making keychains. Maybe a sign for a friend's shop. Or maybe—like me—you're trying to figure out why the first test cut looks like someone held a lighter to it instead of using a laser.

Look, I've been there. I've been using the xtool s1 for about 18 months now, handling small production runs for custom gifts and local business signage. In that time, I've wasted maybe $400-500 worth of acrylic on bad settings. The good news: most of those mistakes were avoidable. This FAQ covers the questions I wish I'd had answers to on day one.

1. What xtool s1 acrylic cutting settings should I start with for 3mm clear acrylic?

My baseline settings (for the 20W CO2 module): 100% power, 8-10 mm/s speed, 1 pass. For the 40W module, I drop it to 6-8 mm/s with 70-80% power.

This is the starting point I landed on after ruining about 15 test squares. Here's the thing: these settings assume you've got the material perfectly focused. Even 1mm off focus, and you'll get a wider kerf (cut width) and more edge discoloration. Not ideal, but workable if you're engraving and not cutting.

I'm not 100% sure these work for every batch of acrylic—manufacturing tolerances vary. But for general cast acrylic, this is where I'd start. Keep a scrap piece handy. Always test-cut a corner before committing to the whole sheet.

2. Why does my xtool s1 acrylic engraving look frosted in some spots and clear in others?

That's the classic "uneven burn" problem. Most beginners focus on power settings and completely miss focus consistency across the entire engraving area. The xtool s1's bed isn't perfectly flat over its full 430x390mm area—I'd say it's within a 0.5-1mm variance in my unit.

The fix: use the honeycomb bed and make sure your acrylic is flat against it. If it's bowed (cast acrylic sometimes is), tape the corners down. Also, for engraving, I use reduced power (30-40%) and higher speed (200-250 mm/s) for the 20W module. Two passes at lower power gives a more uniform frosted look than one heavy pass.

To be fair, some acrylic types just engrave differently. Extruded acrylic tends to engrave more uniformly than cast, but cast gives a whiter, more opaque engraving. Choose based on your final look.

3. Can the xtool s1 cut acrylic thicker than 5mm?

Technically, yes. Practically, it takes patience. I've cut 8mm cast acrylic with the 40W module—it took 4 passes at 60% power, 4 mm/s, and the edges weren't pretty. The bottom edge had a bit of melt-back, and I needed a scraper to clean it up.

Here's my honest take: if you regularly need to cut acrylic thicker than 6mm, a CO2 laser system with at least 60-80W is probably a better long-term investment. The xtool s1 is fantastic for up to 5mm. Beyond that, you're fighting physics. Granted, I've made it work for small batches— but the time and cleanup cost eat into any savings.

4. How do I get a flame-polished edge on acrylic with the xtool s1?

Short answer: you don't. Not really. A flame-polished edge requires a butane torch or a CNC router with a polishing bit. The xtool s1 gives you a flame-polished look if you dial in the settings perfectly— but it's not as clean as industrial equipment.

What you can achieve: a clear edge with minimal yellowing. For 3mm acrylic, this happens at 100% power, 10 mm/s (20W module), single pass. The edge will be crystal-clear but slightly raised (a <1mm lip). A light sand with 400-grit sandpaper removes it. I use this method for small text signs or keychains where edge quality matters.

Don't hold me to this, but after about 50 experimental cuts, I found cast acrylic gives marginally better edge clarity than extruded at this speed/power combination.

5. Why does my xtool s1 stop mid-cut on acrylic? Air assist or reflection issue?

Usually both, but in my experience, reflection is the bigger suspect. Acrylic is somewhat reflective to CO2 laser wavelengths. If the beam reflects back into the module or optics, it can trigger an interlock or cause the laser to cut out. This happened to me on a $3,200 order (custom coasters for a coffee shop)—every single coaster had a 1-inch uncut section.

First, make sure your air assist is on and aimed correctly. It blows away fumes and reduces heat buildup, which helps. But if it's still stopping, try rotating your work or changing the path direction. I now cut acrylic in a grid pattern rather than a continuous path. Fewer long, straight cuts = less reflection buildup. A lesson learned the hard way.

6. What's the best way to engrave a laser engraved Yeti-style tumbler with the xtool s1 rotary tool?

The xtool s1's rotary tool works well for cylindrical engraving if you set it up right. The mistake I made on my first try: I used flat-material engraving settings. On a curved surface, the focus changes constantly.

For the 20W module, use 40-50% power, 150-200 mm/s, 1 pass for a frosted glass look on powder-coated tumblers. For stainless steel (with the appropriate marking spray), I use 80% power, 80 mm/s. Two key things: (1) Offset the laser focal point by about 2mm from the material surface—it compensates for the curvature. (2) Use the included rollers properly—center the tumbler so it doesn't wobble.

I handle about 10-15 tumbler orders per month now (mostly custom names for weddings), and this setup has about a 95% success rate. The other 5%? Usually user error—forgetting to center it or the tumbler slipping mid-engrave. Between you and me, the slipping problem is usually because the tumbler bottom isn't clean. Wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol first.

7. Is the xtool s1 a good best starter laser cutter for someone serious about acrylic work?

Yes, with one qualification: it depends on your volume.

If you're making gifts, prototypes, or small-batch items (under 100 units per type), the xtool s1 is fantastic. The modular design—swappable laser modules—is a real advantage. You can start with the 20W CO2 module for engraving and light cutting, then upgrade to the 40W without buying a whole new machine. I did exactly that 6 months in.

If you're planning to run production and cut hundreds of pieces of thick acrylic weekly, a dedicated CO2 laser system (40-60W at minimum) will be faster and more consistent. The xtool s1's desktop form factor is perfect for a small workshop or home office. Not industrial, but highly capable.

I've found it's also easier to learn on than industrial systems—the software interface (LaserGRBL or LightBurn) is straightforward. After 5 years of tinkering with various laser cutters, I'd call it the best value in the sub-$1500 range for acrylic work. Roughly speaking, it handles 80% of what I need for about 40% of the cost of a larger system.

8. What's the one xtool s1 acrylic setting mistake I should absolutely avoid?

Overpowering thin acrylic. I made this mistake on my third order ever. 3mm acrylic, 100% power, 5 mm/s, thinking "more power = faster cut." Result: melted edges, smoke damage on the surface, and a $280 loss (material + time).

For any acrylic under 5mm, start with 80-90% power and increase speed if the cut isn't clean. High power + low speed on acrylic = melting, not cutting. The xtool s1 is a precision tool, not a brute-force machine. Treat it like one.

Prices and settings as of May 2024. Verify current firmware and module specs at xtool.com as updates may affect recommendations.