Can the Xtool S1 Cut Acrylic? Yes, but Here's What No One Tells You About Thickness, Speed, and the Rotary Tool
If you've ever typed "can the Xtool S1 cut acrylic" into Google, you've probably seen the same answer: yes, it can. And that's true—mostly. But in my role as a quality compliance manager at a mid-size laser equipment distributor, I've reviewed over 200 test cuts on the S1 across materials ranging from 3mm MDF to laser cuttable foam. I've rejected about 15% of first-round test samples this year alone because the specs weren't met. And acrylic? It's one of the trickiest materials to get right, especially when you start thinking about the rotary tool for cylindrical engraving or best laser cut projects.
Here's what I've learned from those failures (unfortunately) and the small victories that followed. This is a practical checklist—no fluff, just what works.
When This Checklist Applies
This is for you if you're using the Xtool S1 and want to cut acrylic cleanly—especially if you're working with thinner sheets (1mm to 6mm, ideally 3mm to start) or aiming to combine it with the rotary tool for cylindrical acrylic pieces. It's also relevant if you're sourcing materials like laser cuttable foam or 3mm MDF for laser cutting and want to avoid common pitfalls.
This checklist covers 5 steps. Let's go.
Step 1: Choose the Right Acrylic (Cast vs. Extruded—the Difference Matters)
Most beginners make this mistake: they buy any clear acrylic sheet and assume it'll cut the same. It doesn't. Here's the breakdown:
- Cast acrylic: Cuts cleanly, produces a satin-like edge. It's more expensive but gives better results for projects that need polished edges without extra work.
- Extruded acrylic: Cheaper, but it's more likely to crack under laser stress. The cut edge can be cloudy or melt unevenly—especially at higher speeds.
In Q1 2024, we received a batch of 50 acrylic samples from a new supplier. 12 of them were extruded, not cast—the spec sheet said "clear acrylic" without specifying. The test cuts had visible micro-cracks along the edges. We rejected the batch. The vendor claimed it was "within industry standard." We disagreed. Now every contract includes cast acrylic unless otherwise specified. (Should mention: we'd built in a 3-day buffer for testing, which saved us from a production delay.)
Takeaway: For the Xtool S1, stick with cast acrylic for the best results. For 1-3mm thickness, it's forgiving enough for beginners. For thicker (4-6mm), cast is practically mandatory.
Step 2: Set Your Xtool S1 Parameters for Acrylic
The S1 works with the 20W or 40W laser module. I've tested both. Here are my go-to starting settings (adjust based on your specific batch—acrylic can vary by brand):
- 20W module, 3mm cast acrylic: Power 35-45%, Speed 10-15mm/s, 2-3 passes. Single-pass attempts often leave a rough edge.
- 40W module, 3mm cast acrylic: Power 25-35%, Speed 15-20mm/s, 1-2 passes. Faster, but watch for overheating.
- 4-6mm cast acrylic (20W or 40W): Lower speed (5-10mm/s), more passes (3-5), and ensure good air assist to reduce flare-ups.
Here's a thing most guides skip: run a test grid on a scrap piece. I do 5 variations—change power by 5% and speed by 2mm/s—and check which gives the cleanest edge with minimal yellowing. That test takes 10 minutes and saves a lot of waste.
Oh, and air assist is crucial. Without it, acrylic flames up more easily (ugh). The S1's built-in air assist works fine; just make sure it's on.
Step 3: Don't Overlook the Rotary Tool for Cylindrical Acrylic Engraving
The Xtool S1 rotary tool is designed for cylindrical objects like mugs, bottles, and tubes. But I've seen people use it with thin-walled acrylic tubes or rods and wonder why the results look terrible. Here's why:
- Acrylic tubes (especially extruded) can warp under the roller pressure. Cast acrylic tubes are better.
- Engraving settings differ from cutting: for 20W/40W, use lower power (15-25%) and higher speed (30-50mm/s) to avoid melting the surface.
- The rotary alignment is critical. If the object is off-center, the focal point shifts, leading to uneven engraving. I've rejected 3 out of 20 test engravings this year due to poor alignment—all from rushing setup.
In my experience, the rotary tool adds tremendous value for personalized items (think: acrylic awards, cylindrical signage). But the learning curve is real. Take it from someone who's rejected 8,000 units of stored items (a different material, but still)—alignment is a quality killer.
Step 4: Consider 3mm MDF as Your Baseline Material for Testing
If you're new to the S1 or acrylic, don't start with acrylic. Start with 3mm MDF for laser cutting. Here's why:
- MDF is forgiving. It cuts cleanly at moderate speeds, and errors are less costly.
- It teaches you how the S1 handles vector paths, power distribution, and focal height adjustments.
- Once you master MDF (say, 10 successful cuts), acrylic feels more predictable. (At least, that's been my experience with training new operators in our workshop.)
3mm MDF setup (40W module): Power 40-50%, Speed 15-20mm/s, 1-2 passes. Edge quality is usually good, though you'll see some charring—that's normal. For best laser cut projects, MDF is a solid choice for prototypes and jigs.
Step 5: Explore Laser Cuttable Foam as a Faster Alternative for Prototyping
I've been using laser cuttable foam lately for quick prototypes before committing to acrylic (or MDF). It's faster to cut, cheaper to waste, and doesn't require the same careful parameter tuning. For the S1:
- EVA foam (3-5mm): Power 30-40%, Speed 20-30mm/s, 1 pass. Cuts like butter.
- Neoprene foam (thin, up to 3mm): Power 40-50%, Speed 15-20mm/s, 1 pass. Watch for melting if speed is too low.
The downside: foam edges aren't as clean as acrylic for final products. But for concept testing—which is often 80% of the work—it saves time and material. (Finally! A material that doesn't throw curveballs every batch.)
Common Mistakes I've Seen (and Made)
Here are the top 3 errors from my quality audits this year:
- Skipping the test grid: You'll waste acrylic unnecessarily. Do the 10-minute test.
- Assuming all acrylic is the same: Cast vs. extruded matters. I said this earlier, but it's worth repeating.
- Overlooking air assist: Especially for thicker cuts. Without it, flame-ups can damage the lens.
Also, if you're using the rotary tool, check alignment with a test line before starting the full job. In hindsight, I should have pushed back on timelines more often to allow for that verification. But with deadlines looming, I've made the call with incomplete data (and regretted it).
Final Notes
Prices for acrylic sheets vary: a 12x24 inch 3mm cast acrylic sheet runs about $15-25 (based on online retailer quotes, January 2025; verify current pricing). MDF is cheaper: $5-10 for the same size. Laser cuttable foam is around $10-15. The S1 itself (with the 20W module) is priced at roughly $400-600 (verify current rates).
If you're planning best laser cut projects, start small. One good cut is better than five flawed ones. And if a vendor says they can supply laser-ready acrylic without specifying cast vs. extruded? Ask for a sample first. Trust me on this one.
